I could use some help too.  Mine is already pretty close but would like to know how to really zero it in. 

The main thing to "Zero" a bow is more of how you shoot.  Now that's assuming you have done the paper test and have it shooting well.  If you are not familiar with the paper test here's a site.

http://domino.htcomp.net/bhn/Columnists.nsf/07fad96a632bb6f6862564a500754dbd/d4291577918eb6a3862565a4003afb35?OpenDocument

The other thing is consistency.  You have to try to do every thing exactly the same every time.  From how you cradle the  bow to how you release the string.   Some other stuff that may be contributing are the arrow tips (I have a Magnus 2 blade one that is slightly out of true compared to the others and that slight bit greatly affects the accuracy of that arrow)

The best thing to do is take it to an archery range.  Those guys almost always have some trick that they are willing to share that may improve shooting.  Other then that just keep shooting as much as possible.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Start at 10 yards with your top pin. You must be able to hold a group. If you can't group, shoot an arrow 20 yards that you can watch it fly. Be sure the arrow flies in a good line with no wobble or kick. If it has a wobble you have something out of alignment and you will never get it sighted in. Your knock position, arrow rest and string must be square. Once that is done, an arrow will fly straight. Now you can fine-tune your sight starting with the top pin. If it's good at 10 yards it should be good at 20 or 25 yards. Also be sure your draw is the same every time. Use a kisser and draw your bow with your eyes closed and get set. Open your eye and you should be looking through the peep. When you get tired rest. You can't shoot good if you are fatigued. Develope a pre-shot routine and use it on every shot. I like to feel the kisser on my tooth and touch the string to the side of my nose. When that is done I'm ready to shoot. You don't have much time left to practice. You may want to go to a good archery shop and they will help you get these final little things out of the way. Then you can start trying the broadheads. I like the bacon skinners or rage 2 blade. Both are field point accurate.

When sighting move your sight the direction of the arrow or chase the arrow.

GO CLIMB A TREE, TIM

Thanks.

Keep yer eyes peeled!

Aim at what you want to shoot and "let that stick fly"

"Hate me if you want to, Love me if you can" Git-R-Done!

I grew up on the longbow and recurve. I just can't seem to get the hang of fine tuning the accuracy on my new bow.

Keep yer eyes peeled!

I'm guessing you want to learn how to group better??  Or are you just confused on how to move the pins??

Form is the most critical thing for accuracy.  You're feet need to be a little under should width.  You need to be standing 90 degs of the target.  Your left arm should have some bend in it to prevent you hitting your arm (even w/ the bow set at the correct drawlength).  Your release arm needs to continue pulling till the trigger is squeezed.  You'll feel the back muscles between the shoulderblades squeeze together if done properly.  Some guys feel more comfortable drawing back and setting the pin above or below the bullseye and then move a little to the center of the bull.  While you are drawing the bow string back keep looking at the bullseye and the pin should come close to it every time.  Once you're on target you need to focus on the center of the bull and in doing so the pin should be floating very little on target.  When you're focused and everything is lined up start squeezing the trigger and continue pulling w/ your shooting arm.  Start out at 10-15yds till you get comfortable.  I would recommend not setting a pin for 10yds though.  I'd set one for 20yds and every 10yds after that to your max range.

If you have problems keeping the pin on the center of the bull.  I've taught others to take the pin and make little circles inside the bull and progressively make them smaller while squeezing the trigger.  You need the release to be a surprise everytime. 

My recommendation is to NEVER watch your own arrow flight.  You start watching the flight and then other bad habits start.  An older fellow once told me that a watched arrow is usually a bad shot.  If the arrow catches your eye darken the nock and fletching so you can't see it.

If you need more info you can e-mail me.  I can go into greater details on what you may need more help on. 

My issue might be grouping more than anything else. I am going to work tomorrow on consistency of form rather than moving pins as much. I will see if I can maintain a consistent pattern before I move anything.

I will let y'all know how it goes. Thanks for the help.

Keep yer eyes peeled!

Well, I have worked and worked the last week or so, and came to the conclusion that I needed so suck up my pride, and bring my limb tension down a notch to a lesser draw weight.

I believe my problem was the 70# draw caused me to fatigue quickly, and ergo, lose my form. I reduced it down to about 60# and am holding arrow groups within 2" at 20 and 30 yards. The ease of draw makes me much smoother in technique, and I can shoot 50-60 times without any fatigue.

Thanks for all the help.

Keep yer eyes peeled!

Duckwhacker, paper tuning is a really good starting point. You get that puppy shooting bullet holes in paper at 6 feet and everything else becomes easier. Edge tuning helps to fine tune as well.

Walk back tuning will usually follow and be very close after the paper tuning, and the edge tuning.

Broadhead tuning is the final piece to the tuning puzzle, and on some bows it can be a real bear, and on others it can be a piece of cake. The goal is to have your broadheads hitting exactly like your field tips.

As you can imagine, for this to occur, the arrow has to be exactly perpindicular to the bowstring at the transfer of energy (into free flight locomotion). When correct, the plane of the broadhead has little to no effect.

Many have given solid tips on shooting groups. Just like a rifle, the anchor point has to be exactly the same place each time and the front hand has to let the bow do it's business without any interruption from you.

As such, most will say the perfect anchor point with a release aid is just under the jawline, and if you feel there near your ear lobe, you'll find a small hole. Stick the knuckle of your index finger into that hole every time, and let the string just slightly touch the end of your nose. There's the consistency in the rear.

On the front hand, open her up so you don't have a death grip on the bow. Let her jump forward with the arrow so that you aren't torquing the bow left or right. The blow sling that mounts to the stabilizer is meant to keep the bow from hitting the ground.

Watch those groups shrink. Just as with a rifle, aim small, miss small.

Bobby, just another thought. Be sure your arrow is strong enough for the bow. You don't want that arrow bowing-up when you send it down range. Kevin is very right about that left hand. I let my bow more or less just fall after the shot. Also try to watch your shot through the sight just as you would your scope. Don't worry about pride and crank that bow down. With a big buck on the ground no one will give you a bad time about draw weight!

GO CLIMB A TREE, TIM

I shoot 400 gr. 55/70 carbon. 100gr. points and broadheads

Keep yer eyes peeled!

First hold your bow straight out in front of you and look at your sight your pins should be in line with your bow string where when you look at your pins threw one eye the string on your bow in in from of the pins and you cant see them in you can see the pins while looking threw one eye then move the pins till you cant see them cause they are hidden behind the bow string this is a boar sight for bows after this all you have to do is start sighting in from 10 to 20 and 30 or how ever you wont but you should be able to hit the target with it borsighted then you adjust up or down if you wont to go up move the sight down if you wont to go down move the sight up this is the key to sighting in your bow. any questions call 817-372-3451 anytime day or night good luck fellow bow hunters.